“Natural wines – no flaws!”
March 11, 2022
Cambridge, MA
I have been super-excited to review Spoke Wine Bar in bustling Davis Square. I’ve been going there for years and every time I go, the wine list has changed, like a chameleon to match the current season, the current menu and the current zeitgeist.
It is difficult to write this review because the wine list is so dynamic. I tasted through almost the entire by-the-glass selection with Mary Kurth, the woman whose vision has nurtured the ever-evolving list and feel like I could go back every other week and learn something new. Frankly, I was a bit intimidated to speak with her because despite all my training and tasting and collecting, I feel like she has a read on wines that only a select few ever achieve. Not only has she traveled to many wine regions, she has actually worked several harvests at a vineyard, doing the back-breaking work of hand-harvesting grapes. This sort of intimate knowledge of the grape itself is very unusual in a wine bar owner!
Spoke is a place for the curious, the adventurous and those not looking to roll out after a big, heavy meal. But because she runs a restaurant where the wonderful, innovative food and wine are meant to complement each other, her staff have to be able to explain every wine to her customers. They must know what they are serving and recommending – a daunting task – but one that leads to great training and growth in their appreciation for wine. This training enables the recognize natural wines that are exquisitely made, not the flawed, funky stuff people sometimes celebrate for its “authenticity.”
For this review, I will discuss the wines I tasted – which will not remain on the menu long, but each “slot” on the menu is meant to fit a similar taste profile and pair well with the very creative menu. Among the whites, Mary selects for three characteristics. The first wine must be lean, light and linear. The second wine must have a little more body, a bit more complexity, preferably with some savory, high acid, perhaps saline characteristics. And the third must be a bit more round and full-bodied, perhaps with juicy pear or peach notes and medium acid. But we began with sparkling wine so I will also.
Petit Royal, Lambert de Seyssel, Savoie and Bugey, FranceI had not realized until I spent a few months in Paris, that there is nothing more luxurious than sitting down in a restaurant, ordering a bubbly and then as you sip and relax, looking at the menu and choosing the right courses for the evening. This sparkler from the alpine reaches of the Jura mountains is perfect. Made with Molette and Altesse, two local grape varieties, the wine is smooth, a bit minerally, with lively citrus from the Molette and some floral, nuttiness from the Altesse and of course the yummy brioche flavors that come from aging on the yeast (lees) for 2 years.
2019 “Greek Connection,” Jason Ligas x Vin de Potes, Samos, GreeceThis wine, which sees a bit of skin contact, bursts with aromas of marmalade, bread, dill, orange blossom and maybe even some wild mushroom. Made with the very unusual blend of 90% Muscat a Petits Grains and 10% Assyritiko, it is as noted above, light and linear. Its origins in Samos, Greece are underlined by a minerally, salt air flavor on the palate. It makes you crave seafood.
“Pompette,” Clos de Mourres, Vin d’Pays, FranceThis wine made in Vaucluse is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc grapes. This is a common blend in the southern Rhône that fulfills the expectations set by Mary exactly. A little more body with aromatic herbaceous notes overlaying toasted almond and apples, the purity of the fruit comes through, having seen no oak. It is a zero sulfur added wine that manages to combine its lively character with an easy drinkability and would go well any vegetables with nuts, herbs or cream.
Serra Oca Moscatel Graudo, Quinta do Olival do Murta, Lisboa, PortugalFor a more full-bodied white wine, this orange wine is oddly perfect. It is fermented on the skins for 10 days and like a red wine, it extracts extra flavors and even a hint of tannin. It is a beautiful, complex wine with sweet citrus, white flowers, fleshy orchard fruit and a hint of petrol on the nose and is minerally and floral on the palate. Having had this wine, I can’t imagine why anyone would ever choose an oaky Chardonnay again. It has medium acid, a “fatter” mouthfeel and is a wine that probably goes with everything on the menu.
The red wines on the list are also “slotted” into 4 general categories. The first will be a lighter, higher acid red that could even be a little chilled. The second is a more fruit-driven but still lighter wine with some savory notes. The third would be something with a bit more complexity and medium bodied with some fruit, some tobacco or tea leaf, some earthy notes. And the fourth must be “toothsome,” something you can chew on a bit and that will warm you up. I only tasted three, but the overall characteristics were true to Mary’s vision.
Moschomavro, Diamantis Vineyards, Siatista, GreeceMoschomavro, an almost extinct grape, was rediscovered and replanted in the 1970s by the Diamantis family. Made in very small quantities, this heritage variety translates to “Black Muscat,” but does not seem to share any characteristics with the common white muscat variety. Julia Harding describes this wine has having “verve and tannic finesse.” I would describe it as refined, complex and delicious. It has so many layered aromas and flavors, berries, dusty tannins, savory-umami, black tea, tarragon, maybe even mint. It is a wine to enjoy with Mediterranean flavors, like coppa cotto or salad with short ribs.
Schioppetino di Prepotto, Grillo Iole, Colli Orientali del Friuli, ItalyAromatic, medium-bodied, with dark fruit, dried violets, baking spice and finishing on a very pleasant bitterness. This wine is very pretty. The name of the grape comes from the small size of the thick-skinned berries, which make a “small pop” or schioppetino when crushed. In keeping with the rest of the wine list, this variety is not well known in the international market but is prized by the locals. Most wine people say you should enjoy the local cuisine with local wines, and Friuli is known for its forceful flavors – a mix between Mediterranean and Slavic cuisine. That seems to say, everything goes!
Ca’n Verdura Negre, Binissalem, MallorcaThe winemaker describes this wine as a love letter to the Mallorcan landscape. A blend of 70% Mantonegro and a revolving supporting cast of callet, monastrell and cabernet or merlot, it is a dark wine with sweet smells. The land is hot, dry and dusty but is cooled by a constant cool breeze off the Mediterranean. This wine is chewy and robust, berry-driven with some dried orange peel, fresh herbs and lots of baking spice. The tannins are a bit rustic and you get some pleasant iron on the finish. This is a wine to have with roasted, smoky meats and a heavy sauce.
There are so many more beautiful and interesting choices on the menu. Unfortunately, I was suffering from palate fatigue at this point and feared I would not do justice to more wines. But my main take away is that one needs to go often and taste everything. The wines Mary selects will always be great!
For more information about Spoke Wine Bar, visit their website